Express Chunky Sweater Turtleneck Max 47% OFF Sweater,Chunky,Express , Sweaters , Cowl & Turtlenecks,style-fashion.ml,Express,$16,Turtleneck,/idiolalia851215.html Express Chunky Sweater Turtleneck Max 47% OFF $16 Express Chunky Turtleneck Sweater Express Sweaters Cowl & Turtlenecks $16 Express Chunky Turtleneck Sweater Express Sweaters Cowl & Turtlenecks Sweater,Chunky,Express , Sweaters , Cowl & Turtlenecks,style-fashion.ml,Express,$16,Turtleneck,/idiolalia851215.html

Express Very popular Chunky Sweater Turtleneck Max 47% OFF

Express Chunky Turtleneck Sweater

$16

Express Chunky Turtleneck Sweater

Pretty Aqua Blue turtleneck in a chunky knit. Size small . 85% acrylic 15% mohair wool EUC Color Aqua Blue
|||

Express Chunky Turtleneck Sweater

Tuesday, 12 April 2022

Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree



Weavers ( piecework)                                                              :                2500 x 10 = 25000 Rs.
Zari Mark for Sarees 10 Sarees Warp                                      :               1200 x 30 = 36000 Rs.  ( Price of one Mark: 1200 Rs.)
Zari Mark for Sarees Weft                                                       :                1200 x 10 = 12000 Rs. 
Design & Punching Cards                                                       :                13000+2000 = 15000 Rs
( 240 Hooks each on Border, 
Pallu, 2 x Body: total 4 Jacquards) 
Silk for Body 10 Sarees  (18-20 denier 2 ply)                       :                 2 kg x 6000  = 12000 Rs.
Silk For Border 10 Sarees                                                      :                 1 kg x 6000  = 6000 Rs. 
Dyeing                                                                                    :                                        = 1500 Rs. 

Total                                                                                        :                  1,07,500

All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees



These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram  and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari:

1 Mark: 4 spools with net weight of 240 grams ( Total weight comes out to be 311 grams). One spool contains 2800 to 3000 yards length.  

1. Tested or Plastic Zari or Metallic Zari

This type of zari is purely artificial in which fused plastic is coated with metal like aluminum. This metallized sheet is dyed in various colors according to the requirements and converted into thin tapes, which are finally wound on a core of polyester, viscose or nylon to make the final product. Used in the lowest qualities of Varanasi sarees specially in Dupions. Normally price is about 250 to 300 Rs. per mark. 

2. German Silver Zari

This is also used in the low cost Kanjivaram sarees. Generally it is 30 D zari. Here the core is polyester, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 720 Rs. per mark. 

3. German Silk Fast Zari

This is generally used in the medium price Kanjivaram Sarees. Generally the denier is about 30. Here the core is pure silk, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 1200 Rs. per mark. 

4. Half Fine Zari

This is generally used in the premium Kanjivaram Sarees. The gold content is about 0.01% (1gm) to 0.02%(2gm) per kg of copper. The Silk yarn is used in the core. The price is between 1800 -2200 Rs.  per mark. 

5. Pure Zari

It is made only on order Silk yarn is used as core, over that silver and than plated with gold. In one of the test reports, the following were the results: Gold 0.13, Silver: 18.42 and copper 56.61. 

Buy my books at Amazon.com

Sunday, 10 October 2021

How to Test for Pure Zari in Kanjivaram and other Sarees



A few testing laboratories in Kanchipuram provide this service. This is what this portal has to say about the testing method:

In order to build the confidence and credibility among the customers and in the industry about the quality of zari in silk fabrics, testing is very important and much required.  Hitherto, for testing metal contents in zari, destructive method of testing has been carried out.  Now, the testing of zari samples and zari made fabric are carried out by Non-destructive testing (XRF Analyser), which is a unique one.  The technical know-how of the project was jointly developed by Technology Information, Forecasting and Assessment Councils (TIFAC) and Tamil Nadu Zari with the guidance of the Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research (IGCAR, Kalpakkam).

The Zari is sold in terms of MARC.  Weight of one marc is 242 grams.  The composition of the marc is indicated below: -

                              SILVER     55        to     57%

                              SILK         22         to     24%

                              GOLD    0.59        to   0.60%

                              COPPER   20        to     22%



RAW MATERIALS

The required raw materials for the production of the gold zari are:-

Ø      Silver wire        -  76 to 77%

Ø      Silk                   -   13 X 15 denier

Ø      Gold                 -   24 carat.




The information below talks about the XRF technique

XRF (X-ray fluorescence) is a non-destructive analytical technique used to determine the elemental composition of materials. XRF analyzers determine the chemistry of a sample by measuring the fluorescent (or secondary) X-ray emitted from a sample when it is excited by a primary X-ray source. Each of the elements present in a sample produces a set of characteristic fluorescent X-rays (“a fingerprint”) that is unique for that specific element, which is why XRF spectroscopy is an excellent technology for qualitative and quantitative analysis of material composition.

What is Single, 1.5, double warp in Kanjivaram Sarees



1. Kanjivaram Sarees Use 20-22 denier 3 ply filaments. 
2. Single warp means 100 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a single warp is 4900. 
3. 1.5 warp means 150 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 1.5 inches warp is 7350. 
4. Double warp means 200 ends per inch. For a 49 inches loom, the number of ends in a 2 inches warp is 9800. 
5. Generally, the number of picks are more for single warp, then for 1.5 warp or double warp. 
6. Generally 72, 74, 76 PPi is used. 

Total Pageviews